Introduction
This session is all about safe, targeted tendon adaptation. You’ll use short, high‑intensity hangs on a 20 mm edge or lift‑off block to drive mechano‑transduction in your finger flexors. Tendons respond to stress like ropes under tension—apply just enough pull, and the fibers align and strengthen. In just over 23 minutes you’ll hit the 60–120 s “sweet spot” for collagen synthesis and tendon stiffening—enough stimulus to grow resilience, without tipping into overload.
Data‑Driven Rationale
Total Load Time: 3 sets × 6 reps × 5 s = 90 s of active tendon loading.
Session Duration: ≈ 23 min 20 s (all hangs, rests & transitions)
Set 1: Get‑Ready + 6 × (hang + rest) + transition = 9 min 10 s
Set 2: 6 × (hang + rest) + transition = 9 min 05 s
Set 3: 6 × (hang + rest) = 5 min 05 s
Sweet‑Spot Loading (60–120 s):
Tensile strains above ~70 % of your max contraction for 60–120 s cumulatively trigger tenocyte signaling. That window maximizes collagen turnover and tendon stiffening 24–48 h later.
Estimated Climbing Stress Index: ≈ 50 (Moderate intensity)
You’re squarely in the 30–70 range—ideal for building strength without derailing recovery.
Full Program
▪️ Option A: Hangboard Hangs (20 mm edge)
– Grip type: Half crimp
– 3 sets × 6 reps
– 5 s hold =@ BW or 70 % of your 5 s max weighted hangs
– Rest 55 s between hangs
– Rest 4 min between sets
▪️ Option B: Lift‑Off Block (20 mm edge)
– Grip type: Half crimp
– 3 sets × 6 reps
– 5 s lift =@ 60–80 % of your own 5 s max lift‑off weight (adjust to pain‑free)
– Rest 55 s between lifts
– Rest 4 min between sets
Who & How Often
Level: Phase 3 rehab clients and intermediate climbers building tendon resilience.
Frequency: 2–3×/week on non‑consecutive days.
Integration:
– Perform on its own or after a light warm‑up; avoid heavy or high intensity climbing on the same day.
– Pair with wrist‑extensor strengthening and shoulder‑stability drills.
– Log your load time and CSI weekly to fine‑tune rest periods, volume, and intensity for steady progress.