Technique Focus
Focus: Emphasize movement, footwork, and body positioning.
Structure: 1.5-hour session, 10 problems split into 2 sets of 5.
Holds: Large jugs and slopers to encourage focus on technique over grip strength.
Volume: 10 problems, ensuring quality over quantity.
Rest: 3-5 minutes rest between climbs to focus on recovery, 5-10 minutes between sets.
Grading: V0-V2, allowing climbers to focus on executing movements flawlessly.
Additional Aspects: Incorporate technique drills such as silent feet, straight arms, and lock-offs to emphasize learning. Climbers should perform each problem twice to reinforce movement patterns.
This session is designed to build a solid foundation, focusing on technique and endurance without risking overtraining or injury. By using larger holds and easier problems, the climber can concentrate on movement, body positioning, and efficiency. The low volume ensures not overloading the muscles, which minimizes injury risk and allows for recovery.
The essence of a Low Intensity - Low Volume session is to foster technique improvement and ensure recovery, making it ideal for days following intense training or climbing. The focus is on perfecting movements, enhancing footwork, and refining body positioning without placing excessive strain on the muscles or joints.
Total Problems: 5 boulder problems.
Attempts per Problem: 2 attempts.
Sets: In this context, each boulder problem can be considered a 'set' of its own because the session emphasizes quality over quantity.
Attempt Definition:
An attempt is defined as a climber starting and completing a problem or falling/stepping off the wall. For this session, limiting to 2 attempts per problem ensures that the climber maintains focus on executing movements with precision rather than trying to power through the climb.
Rest Between Attempts:
Allowing 3-5 minutes of rest between attempts is crucial. This duration serves multiple purposes:
It gives the climber time to physically recover, ensuring that each attempt is made with a relatively fresh body.
It provides a mental break, allowing climbers to reflect on their previous attempt, consider their movements, and plan adjustments for the next try.
This rest period also helps in maintaining a low-intensity focus, ensuring that the session contributes to recovery.
Rest Between Sets (Problems):
A longer rest period of 5-10 minutes between problems (sets) is recommended. This time is not just for physical and mental recovery but also for engaging in active learning:
Analyze the climb: Discussing the problem with peers or a coach, considering different techniques or approaches.
Visualization: Spending time visualizing the movements required for a successful climb.
Technique refinement: Practicing specific movements on the ground or using a training board to refine technique before the next attempt.
The primary goal of this session is to improve climbing technique, so each problem should be chosen based on its ability to teach or reinforce a specific skill or set of movements.
For example:
A problem that requires precise footwork and balance can help improve a climber's ability to distribute weight effectively.
A problem with a variety of hold types (jugs, slopers) can be used to practice grip changes and body positioning.
The balance between attempts and sets in a Low Intensity - Low Volume session is designed to maximize learning and recovery. By focusing on a small number of problems and limiting attempts, climbers can dedicate more energy to each climb, paying close attention to the execution of each movement.
This methodical approach reduces the risk of injury by avoiding overexertion and ensures that the session aids in the recovery process, preparing the climber for more intense training days ahead.
Incorporating these sessions into a climber's routine is a strategic way to enhance technique while also allowing the body to recover, ensuring continuous improvement without burnout or injury.