Low Intensity - Low Volume
Level: Intermediate
Focus: Technique and Recovery Focus
Style: Bouldering
This session is designed not to push physical limits but to refine climbing techniques and promote recovery. The emphasis on larger holds and lower grades reduces the risk of overuse injuries and allows the climber to focus on perfecting movement patterns, which is crucial for progressing to more difficult climbs.
Low Intensity - Low Volume (Technique and Recovery Focus)
Structure: Select 5 boulder problems that emphasize balance, footwork, and body positioning over physical strength.
Holds: Large jugs and slopers primarily, integrating some medium-sized holds to practice grip transitions without strain.
Volume: 5 problems, 2 attempts per problem, focusing on executing each move with precision.
Rest: 3-5 minutes of rest between attempts to fully recover, and 5-10 minutes between problems to analyze and discuss technique.
Grading: Problems should be V2-V3 for an intermediate climber whose max is around V5-V6.
Session Duration: Approximately 1 hour, including a thorough 15-minute warm-up focusing on dynamic stretching and light climbing, and a 10-minute cool-down with static stretches focusing on flexibility and relaxation.
Overview
The essence of a Low Intensity - Low Volume session is to foster technique improvement and ensure recovery, making it ideal for days following intense training or climbing. The focus is on perfecting movements, enhancing footwork, and refining body positioning without placing excessive strain on the muscles or joints.
Structure
- Total Problems: 5 boulder problems.
- Attempts per Problem: 2 attempts.
- Sets: In this context, each boulder problem can be considered a 'set' of its own because the session emphasizes quality over quantity.
Balancing Attempts and Sets
Attempt Definition: An attempt is defined as a climber starting and completing a problem or falling/stepping off the wall. For this session, limiting to 2 attempts per problem ensures that the climber maintains focus on executing movements with precision rather than trying to power through the climb.
Rest Between Attempts: Allowing 3-5 minutes of rest between attempts is crucial. This duration serves multiple purposes:
- It gives the climber time to physically recover, ensuring that each attempt is made with a relatively fresh body.
- It provides a mental break, allowing climbers to reflect on their previous attempt, consider their movements, and plan adjustments for the next try.
- This rest period also helps in maintaining a low-intensity focus, ensuring that the session contributes to recovery.
Rest Between Sets (Problems): A longer rest period of 5-10 minutes between problems (sets) is recommended. This time is not just for physical and mental recovery but also for engaging in active learning:
Analyze the climb: Discussing the problem with peers or a coach, considering different techniques or approaches.
Visualization: Spending time visualizing the movements required for a successful climb.
Technique refinement: Practicing specific movements on the ground or using a training board to refine technique before the next attempt.
Focus on Technique
The primary goal of this session is to improve climbing technique, so each problem should be chosen based on its ability to teach or reinforce a specific skill or set of movements. For example:
- A problem that requires precise footwork and balance can help improve a climber's ability to distribute weight effectively.
- A problem with a variety of hold types (jugs, slopers) can be used to practice grip changes and body positioning.
Why This Balance?
The balance between attempts and sets in a Low Intensity - Low Volume session is designed to maximize learning and recovery. By focusing on a small number of problems and limiting attempts, climbers can dedicate more energy to each climb, paying close attention to the execution of each movement. This methodical approach reduces the risk of injury by avoiding overexertion and ensures that the session aids in the recovery process, preparing the climber for more intense training days ahead.
Incorporating these sessions into a climber's routine is a strategic way to enhance technique while also allowing the body to recover, ensuring continuous improvement without burnout or injury.
By prioritizing recovery and technique in your climbing sessions, it provides an opportunity to enhance finger strength through dedicated hangboard training or lift-off exercises.
