2025

Finger Strength Report

Understand your limits. Train with purpose.

This report gives you a detailed analysis of your current finger strength and pulling power — and how they relate to your climbing performance.

Whether you used a hangboard or a lift-off test (like a Tindeq or lifting block), your results are translated into a clear Finger Strength Index (FSI) and, if applicable, a Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI). These scores are easy to track over time and benchmark against your climbing goals.

More importantly, you’ll get tailored training recommendations based on your profile — how strong your fingers are, how much you climb, and where you want to go next.

This isn’t just data — it’s a roadmap for becoming a stronger, more capable climber.

Climbing Performance Report - Emma Williams

Climbing Performance Report

Client Name: Emma Williams

Test Date: 24 February 2025

Climber Type: Boulderer

Age: 25

Climbing Level: V5 (Font 6C/6C+)

Experience: 4–5 years

1. Test Summary

Test ComponentValue
Test MethodLift-Off Block (Half Crimp)
Edge DepthNot specified
Bodyweight62.0 kg
Right Hand Peak Load43.0 kg
Left Hand Peak Load41.0 kg
Hang Time5 seconds
Pull-Up TestNot performed

2. Finger Strength Index (FSI)

FSI: 51 / 100 (Lift-Off Block)

This score reflects your maximum one-arm peak force using a lift-off block in a half-crimp grip. Based on your stronger hand (right, 43.0 kg), your FSI score of 51 supports bouldering in the V4–V5 range, slightly below your current climbing grade of V5.

Interpretation: You’re likely compensating well with technique, body positioning, or endurance. Improving your peak finger strength — especially at smaller edge sizes — will help build confidence and reduce reliance on momentum or dynamic movement.

3. Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI)

PSI: Not included

No pull-up test was performed. You may choose to include a weighted pull-up set in future assessments to better understand your pulling power and how it contributes to your overall performance, especially on steep or dynamic terrain.

4. Performance Analysis

CapacityStatusNotes
Finger StrengthSlightly below climbing gradeFSI (51) underperforms relative to V5 level
Pulling StrengthNot testedAdd in future for full strength profile
Overall BalanceTechnique-DrivenCompensating well with body control and endurance

You’re climbing close to your limit. Improving finger strength and edge control will help unlock problems that currently feel just out of reach.

5. Training Recommendations

Finger training should complement your climbing, not replace it. If you’re climbing 2–3x per week, keep hangboard sessions low in volume but consistent. On heavier climbing weeks, reduce hangboard intensity or volume to avoid overload.

Primary Focus: Max Finger Strength

  • Max Hangs – 25mm Edge:
    3–5 sets of 5–7 seconds
    Two-arm hangs at challenging but repeatable load
    2x per week
    Full rest between sets (2–3 min)

  • Repeaters – 25mm Edge:
    6 reps: 7s on / 3s off × 2–3 sets
    Use bodyweight only or slightly reduced load
    1–2x per week

  • Edge Progression Work:
    Start introducing smaller edges (e.g. 20mm)
    Use submaximal loads and short durations
    1x per week as a controlled progression session

6. Next Steps

  • Re-test in 6–8 weeks to track your progress in FSI
  • Consider adding a pull-up test next time to evaluate your pulling power
  • Begin building capacity on smaller edges to push past your current grade

Prepared by:
Dennis Blicher
– Climbing Performance & Rehab Specialist