2025

Finger Strength Report

Understand your limits. Train with purpose.

This report gives you a detailed analysis of your current finger strength and pulling power — and how they relate to your climbing performance.

Whether you used a hangboard or a lift-off test (like a Tindeq or lifting block), your results are translated into a clear Finger Strength Index (FSI) and, if applicable, a Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI). These scores are easy to track over time and benchmark against your climbing goals.

More importantly, you’ll get tailored training recommendations based on your profile — how strong your fingers are, how much you climb, and where you want to go next.

This isn’t just data — it’s a roadmap for becoming a stronger, more capable climber.

Climbing Performance Report - Christoffer Olsen

Climbing Performance Report

Client Name: Christoffer Olsen

Test Date: 24 February 2025

Climber Type: Boulderer

Age: 30

Climbing Level: V7 (Font 7A+)

Experience: 2–3 years

1. Test Summary

Test ComponentValue
Test MethodLift-Off Block (Half Crimp)
Edge Depth27 mm
Bodyweight65.0 kg
Right Hand Peak Load50.8 kg
Left Hand Peak Load50.7 kg
Hang Time5 seconds
Pull-Up TestNot performed

2. Finger Strength Index (FSI)

FSI: 58 / 100 (27mm lift-off block)

This score reflects your maximum one-arm peak force using a lift-off block on a 27mm edge in a half-crimp grip. With very consistent values between hands (R: 50.8 kg, L: 50.7 kg), you're showing good bilateral balance. Based on your FSI score of 58, your finger strength supports climbing in the V5–V6 range, slightly below your current bouldering grade of V7.

Interpretation: Your climbing grade suggests a high level of movement skill, body positioning, or power endurance that’s helping compensate for slightly underdeveloped finger strength. Improving your peak finger force — especially on smaller edges — will help bring your physical capacity up to match your current climbing ability.

3. Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI)

PSI: Not included

No pull-up test was performed. You may choose to include a weighted pull-up set in future assessments to better understand your pulling power and how it contributes to your overall performance, especially on steep or dynamic terrain.

4. Performance Analysis

CapacityStatusNotes
Finger StrengthSlightly below climbing gradeFSI (58) underperforms relative to V7 level
Pulling StrengthNot testedAdd in future for full strength profile
Overall BalanceTechnique-DrivenLikely compensating well with movement, tension, and body control

You are likely a well-rounded boulderer with good technique, body tension, and awareness. Strengthening your fingers further — especially at smaller edge depths — will help you climb with more margin and reduce fatigue at your limit.

5. Training Recommendations

Finger training should complement your climbing, not replace it. If you’re climbing 2–3x per week, keep hangboard sessions low in volume but consistent. On heavier climbing weeks, reduce hangboard intensity or volume to avoid overload.

Primary Focus: Max Finger Strength

  • Max Hangs – 20–25mm Edge:
    3–5 sets of 5–7 seconds
    Two-arm hangs at challenging but repeatable load
    2x per week
    Full rest between sets (2–3 min)

  • Repeaters – 25mm Edge:
    6 reps: 7s on / 3s off × 2–3 sets
    Use bodyweight only or slightly reduced load
    1–2x per week

  • Edge Progression Work:
    Start introducing smaller edges (e.g. 20mm)
    Use submaximal loads and short durations
    1x per week as a controlled progression session

6. Next Steps

  • Re-test in 6–8 weeks to track your progress in FSI
  • Consider adding a pull-up test next time to evaluate your pulling power
  • Begin building capacity on smaller edges to push past your current grade

Prepared by:
Dennis Blicher
A Stronger Climber – Climbing Performance & Rehab Specialist