2025

Finger Strength Report

Understand your limits. Train with purpose.

This report gives you a detailed analysis of your current finger strength and pulling power — and how they relate to your climbing performance.

Whether you used a hangboard or a lift-off test (like a Tindeq or lifting block), your results are translated into a clear Finger Strength Index (FSI) and, if applicable, a Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI). These scores are easy to track over time and benchmark against your climbing goals.

More importantly, you’ll get tailored training recommendations based on your profile — how strong your fingers are, how much you climb, and where you want to go next.

This isn’t just data — it’s a roadmap for becoming a stronger, more capable climber.

Climbing Performance Report - Mads Thorstein Roar Henriksen

Climbing Performance Report

Client Name: Mads Thorstein Roar Henriksen

Test Date: 24 February 2025

Climber Type: Boulderer

Age: 29

Climbing Level: V7 (Font 7A+)

Experience: 3–4 years

1. Test Summary

Test ComponentValue
Test MethodLift-Off Block (Half Crimp)
Edge DepthNot specified
Bodyweight73.0 kg
Right Hand Peak Load53.6 kg
Left Hand Peak Load52.6 kg
Hang Time5 seconds
Pull-Up TestNot performed

2. Finger Strength Index (FSI)

FSI: 62 / 100 (Lift-Off Block)

This score reflects your maximum one-arm peak force using a lift-off block in a half-crimp grip. Based on your stronger hand (right: 53.6 kg), your FSI score of 62 supports bouldering in the V6–V7 (7A) range, which aligns well with your current climbing grade.

Interpretation: You have well-balanced strength between arms, and a strong base of finger force. To continue progressing toward V8, focus on smaller edge tolerance and control during lock-off positions or dynamic movement.

3. Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI)

PSI: Not included

No pull-up test was performed. You may choose to include a weighted pull-up set in future assessments to better understand your pulling power and how it contributes to your overall performance, especially on steep or physical problems.

4. Performance Analysis

CapacityStatusNotes
Finger StrengthAligned with current gradeFSI (62) supports performance at V7
Pulling StrengthNot testedAdd to future reports to assess full profile
Overall BalanceWell matchedGood base of strength, next step is improving edge-specific tolerance

You’ve built a solid strength foundation for your grade. Your next performance gains may come from applying this strength under movement stress — especially in compression or on smaller holds.

5. Training Recommendations

Finger training should always complement your climbing. If you're climbing 2–3x per week, perform targeted finger strength work on lower-intensity climbing days, and prioritize rest when needed.

Primary Focus: Max Finger Strength & Edge Control

  • Max Hangs – 20mm Edge:
    3–5 sets of 5–7 seconds
    Use load that challenges but doesn't compromise form
    2x per week
    Full rest between sets (2–3 min)

  • Repeaters – 25mm Edge:
    6 reps: 7s on / 3s off × 2–3 sets
    Use bodyweight only or slightly reduced load
    1–2x per week

  • Edge Progression Work:
    Integrate 18–15mm edges once base strength improves
    Use submaximal load and control-driven holds
    1x per week for skill and tolerance

6. Next Steps

  • Re-test in 6–8 weeks to track progress
  • Add pull-up strength test to complete profile
  • Explore smaller edge training with progressive loading

Prepared by:
Dennis
A Stronger Climber – Climbing Performance & Rehab Specialist