2025

Finger Strength Report

Understand your limits. Train with purpose.

This report gives you a detailed analysis of your current finger strength and pulling power — and how they relate to your climbing performance.

Whether you used a hangboard or a lift-off test (like a Tindeq or lifting block), your results are translated into a clear Finger Strength Index (FSI) and, if applicable, a Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI). These scores are easy to track over time and benchmark against your climbing goals.

More importantly, you’ll get tailored training recommendations based on your profile — how strong your fingers are, how much you climb, and where you want to go next.

This isn’t just data — it’s a roadmap for becoming a stronger, more capable climber.

Climbing Performance Report - Steffen Stengaard Villadsen

Climbing Performance Report

Client Name: Steffen Stengaard Villadsen

Test Date: 24 February 2025

Climber Type: Sports climbing

Age: 40

Climbing Level: V3 (Font 6A/6A+)

Experience: Less than one year

1. Test Summary

Test ComponentValue
Test MethodLift-Off Block (Half Crimp)
Edge DepthNot specified
Bodyweight65.0 kg
Right Hand Peak Load42.0 kg
Left Hand Peak Load42.0 kg
Hang Time5 seconds
Pull-Up TestNot performed

2. Finger Strength Index (FSI)

FSI: 47 / 100 (Lift-Off Block)

This score reflects your maximum one-arm peak force using a lift-off block in a half-crimp grip. With both arms lifting 42 kg, your FSI score of 47 suggests that your finger strength is at a developing level — appropriate for early-stage climbers aiming to solidify foundational skills and strength.

Interpretation: Your finger strength supports climbing in the V3 range. This is a great baseline considering your limited experience. With targeted training and consistent climbing, you'll likely see rapid gains in finger strength and control.

3. Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI)

PSI: Not included

No pull-up test was performed. As you begin developing overall climbing strength, adding a weighted pull-up test in future assessments can help identify your pulling power and track how well it supports performance on steeper routes.

4. Performance Analysis

CapacityStatusNotes
Finger StrengthDevelopingFSI (47) fits with current V3–V4 climbing ability
Pulling StrengthNot testedRecommended for future evaluations
Overall BalanceIn progressMovement skill and technique likely still adapting

This is a strong start. With your current foundation, you’ll benefit most from gradually introducing structured finger strength work while building overall climbing volume and technical fluency.

5. Training Recommendations

At this stage, avoid overloading your fingers too aggressively. Train with intent but leave room for adaptation. Keep finger training low-volume, consistent, and well-spaced from intense climbing sessions.

Primary Focus: Finger Strength Foundations & Safe Adaptation

  • Max Hangs – 25mm Edge:
    3–4 sets of 5–6 seconds using bodyweight only
    Use two-arm or assisted hangs depending on comfort
    1–2x per week
    Full rest between sets (2–3 min)

  • Repeaters – 25mm Edge:
    5 reps: 7s on / 3s off × 2 sets
    Use bodyweight or light resistance band support
    1x per week

  • Lift-Off Technique Drills:
    2–3 sets of 2 controlled lifts per hand
    Use 75–80% of tested peak load
    Focus on posture, smooth engagement
    1x per week

6. Next Steps

  • Re-test in 6–8 weeks to monitor finger strength progression
  • Consider testing pulling strength next time
  • Gradually progress to 20mm edge hangs when ready

Prepared by:
Dennis
A Stronger Climber – Climbing Performance & Rehab Specialist