2025

Finger Strength Report

Understand your limits. Train with purpose.

This report gives you a detailed analysis of your current finger strength and pulling power — and how they relate to your climbing performance.

Whether you used a hangboard or a lift-off test (like a Tindeq or lifting block), your results are translated into a clear Finger Strength Index (FSI) and, if applicable, a Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI). These scores are easy to track over time and benchmark against your climbing goals.

More importantly, you’ll get tailored training recommendations based on your profile — how strong your fingers are, how much you climb, and where you want to go next.

This isn’t just data — it’s a roadmap for becoming a stronger, more capable climber.

Climbing Performance Report - Emil Wrisberg

Climbing Performance Report

Client Name: Emil Wrisberg

Test Date: 24 February 2025

Climber Type: Bouldering

Age: 31

Climbing Level: V3 (Font 6A/6A+)

Experience: 8+ years

1. Test Summary

Test ComponentValue
Test MethodLift-Off Block (Half Crimp)
Edge DepthNot specified
Bodyweight85.0 kg
Right Hand Peak Load53.6 kg
Left Hand Peak Load56.4 kg
Hang Time5 seconds
Pull-Up TestNot performed

2. Finger Strength Index (FSI)

FSI: 48 / 100 (Lift-Off Block)

This score reflects your maximum one-arm peak force using a lift-off block in a half-crimp grip. Based on your stronger hand (left: 56.4 kg), your FSI score of 48 suggests finger strength is slightly below what’s expected for consistent performance at your current grade of V3 (6A/6A+).

Interpretation: With many years of climbing under your belt, you likely rely heavily on experience and movement efficiency. Focused finger strength work could unlock more difficult grades with less effort and reduced risk of over-gripping or fatigue.

3. Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI)

PSI: Not included

No pull-up test was performed. If you encounter limitations on steep or compression-heavy problems, consider adding a weighted pull-up test to future assessments to better evaluate your pulling capacity.

4. Performance Analysis

CapacityStatusNotes
Finger StrengthSlightly below gradeFSI (48) may be limiting performance at V3–V4
Pulling StrengthNot testedConsider testing to complete strength profile
Overall BalanceTechnique-drivenExperience and movement likely compensate for underbuilt strength

You’re climbing well based on your technical ability. Improving finger strength will help bring your physical capacity up to match your experience — and may help you break into V5 and above more consistently.

5. Training Recommendations

At your level and training history, structured finger strength training should be introduced gradually and adjusted to your weekly climbing load (2–3 sessions max per week).

Primary Focus: Foundational Strength + Small Edge Familiarity

  • Max Hangs – 25mm Edge:
    3–4 sets of 5–7 seconds at bodyweight or with light assistance
    Focus on form and consistency
    2x per week
    Rest 2–3 minutes between sets

  • Repeaters – 25mm Edge:
    6 reps: 7s on / 3s off × 2 sets
    Use bodyweight or small rubber band support
    1–2x per week

  • Lift-Off Practice:
    3–4 sets of 2–3 controlled reps per arm
    Use 80–90% of your tested peak load
    1x per week
    Focus on tension, not speed

6. Next Steps

  • Re-test in 6–8 weeks to track progress in FSI
  • Progress to smaller edges (20mm or 18mm) as capacity improves
  • Add pull-up test next time to complete the profile

Prepared by:
Dennis
A Stronger Climber – Climbing Performance & Rehab Specialist