2025

Finger Strength Report

Understand your limits. Train with purpose.

This report gives you a detailed analysis of your current finger strength and pulling power — and how they relate to your climbing performance.

Whether you used a hangboard or a lift-off test (like a Tindeq or lifting block), your results are translated into a clear Finger Strength Index (FSI) and, if applicable, a Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI). These scores are easy to track over time and benchmark against your climbing goals.

More importantly, you’ll get tailored training recommendations based on your profile — how strong your fingers are, how much you climb, and where you want to go next.

This isn’t just data — it’s a roadmap for becoming a stronger, more capable climber.

Climbing Performance Report - Jeppe Trip Kofoed

Climbing Performance Report

Client Name: Jeppe Trip Kofoed

Test Date: 30 November 2025

Climber Type: Bouldering

Age: 30

Climbing Level: V6 (Font 7A)

Experience: 2–3 years

1. Test Summary

Test ComponentValue
Test MethodHangboard – Half Crimp
Edge Depth20 mm
Bodyweight71.0 kg
Added Weight26.25 kg
Total Hang Load97.25 kg
Hang Time7 seconds
Pull-Ups2 reps with +30 kg

2. Finger Strength Index (FSI)

FSI: 73 / 100 (20mm hangboard)

This score reflects your two-arm hang strength using a 20mm edge with added load. Your FSI score of 73 supports bouldering in the V6–V7 (7A–7A+) range — well-aligned with your current climbing level.

Interpretation: You’ve built solid finger strength. Further progress will come from refining your power-endurance and increasing time-under-tension or intensity on smaller edges.

3. Pull-Up Strength Index (PSI)

PSI: 100 / 100
(Capped at 100 for reporting purposes — your true PSI is 112)

Your pull-up test result of 2 reps at +30kg suggests excellent relative pulling strength. You’re producing around 2.1× bodyweight for 2 repetitions. This is more than sufficient for your current climbing level and likely contributes to success on steep or explosive problems.

4. Performance Analysis

CapacityStatusNotes
Finger StrengthOn targetFSI (73) aligns well with V6–V7 climbing
Pulling StrengthExcellentPSI (112 raw) shows elite pulling ability
Overall BalanceWell-developedCapable of climbing above current level with increased edge control

You’re well-positioned for harder climbs. To break into V8 territory, consider progressing your edge size (15mm), refining recruitment timing, and layering in structured power-endurance work.

5. Training Recommendations

Balance your training volume with climbing. Use short, intense hang sessions 1–2x per week, and maintain your pulling strength with lower-volume, high-quality sets.

Primary Focus: Finger Strength & Power Transfer

  • 15mm Edge Progression:
    Begin testing and training on a 15mm edge using safe loading strategies
    Work toward replicating your current 20mm performance on this smaller edge

  • Max Hangs (Strength):
    3–5 sets of 5–7 seconds @ 85–90% of max load
    2x per week with full rest (2–3 min between sets)

  • Repeaters (Endurance):
    6 reps: 7s on / 3s off × 3 sets
    Bodyweight or light added load on 20mm
    1–2x per week

  • Pull-Up Maintenance:
    2–3 sets of weighted pull-ups (low volume, high intensity)
    To retain max pulling capacity
    1x per week

6. Next Steps

  • Re-test in 6–8 weeks to track finger and pull-up progress
  • Progress to 15mm edge work gradually
  • Integrate limit bouldering and explosive movement training

Prepared by:
Dennis
A Stronger Climber – Climbing Performance & Rehab Specialist