Low Intensity - Low Volume

Level: Beginner

Focus: Technique

Style: Bouldering

This session is designed to build a solid foundation, focusing on technique and endurance without risking overtraining or injury. By using larger holds and easier problems, you can concentrate on movement, body positioning, and efficiency. The low volume ensures not overloading the muscles, which minimizes injury risk and allows for recovery.

March, 2024

Low Intensity - Low Volume (Technique Focus)

Focus: Emphasize movement, footwork, and body positioning.

Structure: 1.5-hour session, 10 problems split into 2 sets of 5, with 2 attempts on each problem.

Holds: Large jugs and slopers to encourage focus on technique over grip strength.

Volume: 10 problems, ensuring quality over quantity.

Rest: 3-5 minutes rest between climbs to focus on recovery, 5-10 minutes between sets.

Grading: allowing you to focus on executing movements flawlessly.

Additional Aspects: Incorporate technique drills such as silent feet, straight arms, and lock-offs to emphasize learning. You should perform each problem twice to reinforce movement patterns.

Overview

This program is meticulously designed to prioritize climbing technique, emphasizing footwork, body positioning, and efficient movement on the wall. The low-volume approach ensures you are not overwhelmed, allowing you to concentrate fully on each attempt and refine your skills without the fatigue associated with higher-volume sessions.


Structure

The session spans approximately 1.5 hours, systematically divided into distinct segments to maximize focus and learning outcomes:


Warm-up (15-20 minutes): Starts with general cardiovascular exercises (I find jump rope is effective), followed by light strengthening exercises and dynamic stretching focusing on the shoulders, hips, and legs. The warm-up concludes with easy climbing problems or traverses to prepare the body and mind for technical work.


Technical Drills (20-30 minutes): Engage in drills designed to hone specific aspects of climbing technique, such as silent feet (to improve foot placement precision) and straight-arm climbing (to promote efficiency).


Main Session (40-60 minutes): Split into 2 sets of 5 problems each, these problems are carefully selected to reinforce the day's technical focus. you are encouraged to repeat each problem to solidify learning.


Cool-down (10-15 minutes): Gentle stretching focusing on major muscle groups used during climbing, combined with reflection on the session's learnings and jotting down notes using the climbing journal.


Balancing Attempts and Sets

Attempts: Each problem is attempted with full focus on executing perfect technique, rather than just completing the climb. you make 2-3 attempts per problem, ensuring you have the opportunity to correct mistakes and refine your movement.


Sets: The session comprises 2 sets of 5 problems, with a significant rest period between sets to allow for mental and physical recovery. This structure enables you to maintain high-quality attempts throughout the session.


The Focus

The primary focus is on learning and internalizing climbing techniques that form the foundation of all climbing movements. By emphasizing technique over difficulty, you develop a toolkit of movements that will make you more efficient and effective on the wall.


Why This Balance

This balance between attempts and sets is designed to:


  • Maximize Learning: Repeating problems allows you to practice and refine your technique in a controlled environment, enhancing muscle memory and movement efficiency.

  • Prevent Fatigue: Keeping the volume low and allowing adequate rest prevents physical and mental fatigue, ensuring you can maintain focus on technique rather than struggling with exhaustion.

  • Encourage Reflection: The structure allows time for you to reflect on your attempts, understand yourmistakes, and consciously apply improvements, which is crucial for skill acquisition.

  • Foster Enjoyment and Progress: By avoiding overexertion, the session remains enjoyable and motivating, encouraging continued participation and steady progress.


This carefully crafted balance ensures you not only enjoy your session but also finish with a sense of achievement and a clear direction for your technical development.

TIPS & TRICKS

By prioritizing recovery and technique in your climbing sessions, it provides an opportunity to enhance finger strength through dedicated hangboard training or lift-off exercises.